Sushi & Nature

寿司ナチュール

Gotanda　五反田

Tokyo, Japan　東京　日本

Sushi & Nature in Gotanda stays true to its namesake, presenting a unique sushi omakase experience centered around the impressive natural wine selection.

The restaurant actually operates out of the “Lucy Natural Wine Bar,” lending to the impressive drink selection.

The otsumami dishes presented before the nigiri utilize more savory flavors, more akin to bistro fare than anything served at a more traditional spot.

Of note, the first dish of akashari and ikura is doused with the in-house dashi, and the tempura-fried kisu is served with greens and submerged in a thick, ginger-based broth.

The standout appetizer, however, was the three modest slices of Iwate-sourced stingray liver that were topped with olive oil and finishing salt. It was paired with a sweet, sparkling rose that perfectly balanced out the richness. I have a strong admiration for Japan’s affinity for the fatty livers of sea critters in winter.

The star of the show is, of course, the 10 pieces of nigiri with an akashari base that is more subdued in its acidity. Fatty liver makes itself known once again, topping the piece of kawahagi nigiri. Once the maguro morsels, consisting of akami-zuke and chutoro, came out, the staff switched out my drink for a red wine.

Furthering the deviation from, yet simultaneous homage to, traditional omakase, dessert came in the form of a miso cheesecake, a playful rendition of sushi-ya atsuyaki tamago.